Monday, January 3, 2011

Greens

RESTORING A TIRED RAIN SHELTER



Before the Christmas break we tackled a project which I was a little nervous about. The rain shelter between 16 tee and 17 green had become unstable after a strong wind storm this past season. We found that due to the wooden support posts rotting, the strength of these posts were compromised. We could see one post had actually rotted clear through and had shifted out about 8 inches. This shift had caused the roof at the opposite end of the shelter to be pulled away from it's support.
So why was I nervous? Well, we had a significant amount of weight on the roof from the frame construction and a layer of old asphalt shingles which were covered with cedar shake shingles. I had no way of knowing how much this weighed, but I did know it was currently being supported by only 3 posts, (one of which had rotted through completely), and I knew removing the roof to replace the support posts would triple, if not quadruple the cost to get this shelter fixed. I was also acutely aware if we had a problem and the roof shifted while one of the posts was removed, we probably had no way of stopping the roof from collapsing to the ground which would have significant cost repercussions, and it would put the safety of anyone near the shelter at great risk.



This corner of the roof closest to the pond near 16 tee was not being supported at all!





The support post in the centre of the roof was on a precarious angle due to post closest to the 17th green which had rotted out and shifted.





Notice the twist to the entire shelter, and how the roof on the left side of this picture is sagging.







Even the wind break inside which strengthens the structure is being pulled away.




This post is rotted through and had shifted the left by about 8 inches.

Below is a picture of the first two posts we removed, both were rotted clean through!


So as I planned my objectives for this project I had some goals that I felt we needed to attain to make this completely successful.

1) Replace all rotten, warped, or damaged lumber.
2) Rebuild it with stronger materials.
3) Make all repairs using in house staff.
4) Construct it so it will not require repairs in my life time barring a tornado!
5) Make it maintenance free so we are not having to do any maintenance to it.
6) Make it look attractive, and if possible blend it into the existing landscape so it was not as noticeable!
7) Accomplish all these without removing the roof.


So, step one, shore up the roof so we can remove the old posts.


We used two sections of scaffolding at either end of the shelter. After making sure the scaffold was properly supported under each foot, we leveled out the scaffold so we know the weight of the roof would be straight down reducing the likely hood of the roof shifting. We screwed 3 pieces of 2x6 x 14 foot spruce together and installed one on either side of the scaffold, and used jacks under each end to take about half the weight off the legs and transfer that weight to the scaffolding.



To be extra cautious we then installed a jack post under the 2x6 so we now had 2 points of support once the post is removed.




It didn't surprise me when the weight was taken off the rotten post I was able to pull it off the shelter with one hand! In this photo we have the first post removed, and have this corner supported by one jack on the scaffold and a jack post outside of that. We slowly raised this corner of the roof until it was level. Once we had it where we wanted, we were ready to install the new post.
We did this one post at a time. Even after a new post had been installed we kept the extra support jacks in place. Not until the entire shelter was complete did we remove these supports.






Here we are about to install the 4th of 5 support posts. We replaced the 4x4 posts with 6x6, and used hemlock which is cost effective, it is the hardest softwood available, and has a great rustic look. No paint will be used, and after 5 or 7 years if we don't like the grayish colour it will get over time, we can simply power wash it to restore its natural look.





Many people mistakenly think encasing wood in concrete stops or reduces the wood from rotting because you are keeping soil off the wood. The problem is water still easily gets between the concrete and the wood. As long as the soils are not saturated you would be better to encase the posts with 3/4 inch gravel which allows the air to get at the wood.

We opted to install a post saddle which we concreted in. Moisture which gets between the post and the saddle will be minimized as the sun and air will help to dry it out.





So, I am happy to report all went well and we accomplished all of our goals, and the rain shelter went from this..............................





.........................To this! A much better look I'm sure you will agree. I anticipate rebuilding one rain shelter a year until all have been rebuilt.


On another note, I am happy to report we have not had any ice build up the way we have had over the last two winters! Although I am waiting patiently for a cover of snow to protect the turf from the drying effect the cold north wind can have, at this point we are in great shape. We have installed tarps on the 9 greens which are most susceptible to dessication due to the wind so we are currently feeling good about the current weather conditions.



Finally, a "HUGE CONGRATULATIONS" to our Assistant Superintendent Kyle Young and his wife Brianne who welcomed their first child into the world just before Christmas. It is unlikely Brianne will be returning to the turf crew in 2011 as she has a new priority. Thanks for all your work over the last 5 years Brianne, and best of luck in your new roll as Mommy to Dawson!

You will be missed!


Watch for my next Blog entry which will answer what is probably the most asked question that every golf course superintendent gets......................."What do you do in the winter"?

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